Ait Benhaddou

A Step Back in Time

Ait Benhaddou is always on my itineraries. Located between the High Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert, this ksar (fortified village) was once an important trading post on the ancient caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, dating from the 17th century, Ait Benhaddou is a stunning example of southern Moroccan architecture. There is no road access. We make our way over the Ounila River, via a pedestrian bridge, to narrow, winding alleyways and a maze of rammed-earth buildings. Several sets of stairs climb up to a lookout at the top, from where there are views over the village and surrounding palm groves and, on a clear day, to the snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains.

There's always plenty of time to explore the souvenir shops that sell ceramics, carpets, jewellery and other Moroccan handicrafts and maybe stop for a mint tea in one of the cute cafes.

There is a thriving community of artists here and one of my favourites is Hafida Zizi, a self-taught Amarzigh (Berber) artist, who celebrates the lives of Moroccan women through her art. We often find Hafida painting in her gallery, Tiwirga, from where she sells her bold and colourful canvasses, ceramics and homewares.

The village is also home to several artists who paint with tea, sugar and saffron, before heating their work over a flame, which transforms and darkens the colours. 

The dramatic location and unique architecture of Ait Benhaddou have caught the eye of filmmakers from around the world, with many movies shot here, including Lawrence of Arabia, The Mummy, Gladiator, and Game of Thrones. Film buffs love tracking down the location of scenes from the movies.

If you'd like to visit Ait Benhaddou, join me on one of my tours later this year.