Going underground in Southern Morocco

If I asked you if would like to visit an irrigation channel on your Moroccan tour, unless you're an engineer, you'd likely say no. But you would be missing out!

Centuries ago, in the arid landscapes of southern Morocco, where water is scarce,

the local population developed a sophisticated underground irrigation system, to maximise this precious resource.  Although most of these ancient channels, known as khettaras, have fallen into disuse, it is possible to see them, and go inside some of them, near the small town of Jorf. Rows of low mounds, on either side of the road, indicate that you're in khettara country.

The origins of the khettara system can be traced back to ancient Persia, where similar irrigation techniques, known as qanats, were first developed over 2,500 years ago.  From Persia, their use gradually spread across North Africa, reaching Morocco around the 11th century. They were widely used in the oases of Tafilalet and the Draa Valley, where, historically, rainfall is low.

The undergound channels were constructed from the base of a mountain or highland area, at the level of the water table. Numerous vertical shafts, ranging from a few metres deep to over 30 metres, were dug along the planned route of the khettara, providing both access and ventialtion. The mounds you can see next to the road mark the tops of these vertical shafts. The shafts connect to an underground channel, dug out on a gentle slope and through which water flowed naturally from the water table, under the force of gravity. At the end of the channel, the water was distributed to fields and palm groves via a network of open-air canals or basins, with traditional water-sharing systems ensuring the water was distributed fairly among each community.

Because the channels were built underground, there was minimal evaporation; and, by tapping into the water table, water continued to flow, even during periods of drought.

The channels were maintained by the local communities, to avoid silt build-up and collapse.

Unfortunately, as the level of the water table has dropped, due to overextraction and on-going drought, most of the khettaras in Morocco are no longer viable. And with the introduction of motorised pumps, khettaras have been abandoned in favour of faster and less labour-intensive irrigation systems, which, in turn, has led to channels collapsing and becoming clogged up.

The best place to see well preserved khettaras is near Jorf.

Walking down into one of these underground channels is a unique opportunity to appreciate the effort that went into building them, hundreds of years ago, without the aid of modern machinery. Local guides are on hand to explain the significance of the khettaras for the communities living here. If you’re driving from Merzouga towards Ouarzazate, don’t miss the chance to visit a khettara – they’re not just for engineers.