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- Is Morocco Safe for Female Travellers?
This is the question I am asked most often by women thinking about travelling to Morocco. And the short answer is yes! Morocco often gets a bad rap when it comes to safety for women. Sometimes this is based on experiences from decades ago. Sometimes assumptions are made by women who have never set foot in Morocco, but who think of it as the same as other Muslim countries with strict cultural regimes. As a woman who has spent a lot of time in Morocco over the last few years, both escorting small groups and exploring on my own, I consider Morocco to be safe for female travellers. But like any unfamiliar destination, it helps to have an understanding of the culture, and what to expect. The Historical Context In the 1970s, '80s and into the 1990s, independent travel in Morocco was very different. Tourism infrastructure was limited outside the main cities. There were few hotels, fewer riads, roads in rural areas were often poor, and English-speaking guides were hard to find. Solo female travellers during this time were still fairly unusual, and cultural expectations around women travelling alone were also very different. In a traditionally conservative society, solo female travellers were often viewed with curiosity. Women's experiences ranged from genuine hospitality to persistent invitations, unwanted attention and harassment. While serious crime against tourists was (and is) uncommon, navigating the cultural differences was not without its challenges, particularly for women. Morocco today Fast forward to today, and Morocco is a very different country. Tourism plays a major role in the Moroccan economy, with 20 million tourists in 2025, making Morocco the most visited country in Africa. Moroccans are now well-used to international visitors, from all over the world. And one of the biggest changes is the increasing number of solo female travellers: a woman travelling alone is no longer unusual. Social attitudes in Morocco are evolving too. Although Morocco remains a culturally conservative country by Western standards, the role of women in Moroccan society is slowly changing, and with it, Moroccan attitudes to women, particularly in the cities. My personal experience of being on my own in Morocco has been one hundred per cent positive. But I acknowledge that women continue to report unwanted attention and unsolicited comments when walking on their own. So how should you deal with this? Top Safety Tips for Women in Morocco Dress modestly This is the single most effective thing you can do to reduce unwanted attention. You don't need to be covered up from head to toe, but loose clothing that covers your shoulders and knees is both respectful and practical. Think lightweight trousers, loose long-sleeved tops, and maxi skirts or dresses. Leave the shorts and crop-tops at home. A scarf or shawl is a quick and easy way to cover up. Learn a few words of Arabic "La shokran" ('no thank you' in Arabic) works wonders. Say it confidently and keep walking. You can also say 'la mabreetch' ('I don't like it' in Moroccan Arabic). Avoid being out in the medina on your own late at night Most women travelling in an unfamiliar location know not to go wandering around in dimly lit streets on their own at night. The same goes for Morocco. If you're out late and need to get back to your medina riad on your own, many riads and restaurants have a porter service - for a small fee, a porter will escort you back to your accommodation. Watch out for scams, more than violent crime Of course there are scams, as there are in any tourist destination, aimed at both men and women. The most common of these include locals posing as guides and random people on the street sending you in the wrong direction so they can help you back to where you want to go (for a fee) or telling you a street or local attraction is closed and offering to take you somewhere else (for a fee or commission). My advice is to avoid engaging with random strangers on the street. If you want a guide, make sure he or she is licensed. If you are on a tour, the guide will be arranged for you. If you are on your own, your accommodation will be able to arrange a guide for you. And, even then, you should be very clear about where you want the guide to take you and what you want to do and see. Use Google Maps or a similar service to help you navigate, but be aware that these apps can be tricky to follow in the depths of the medina where alleyways are narrow or covered. If you are lost and need help, ask in a restaurant or shop or find the tourist police, rather than approaching a passing local on the street. Is Crime a concern? Crime is not a major concern in Morocco, and violent crime is fairly unusual and rarely involves tourists. Morocco has a dedicated tourist police force, with a strong presence in the main medinas. CCTV is very common in urban centres and most accommodation has security cameras, both at the entrance and inside. The front doors to riads are generally kept locked, with staff opening the door only on demand. All of these operate as deterrents to opportunistic crime. Having said that, pickpocketing and bag or phone snatching can happen, particularly on public transport and in busy markets. I recommend leaving expensive jewellery at home and keeping money and other valuables out of sight. Cross body bags with internal zipped pockets are a much better place to keep your wallet and phone than leaving them hanging out of a jacket pocket. Why a Small Group Tour Changes Everything If you would like to visit Morocco but still feel unsure, a small group tour could be the perfect solution. You will not be on your own (unless you want to take time for yourself). We are well taken care of by my local drivers and guides, I know the accommodation we stay in and you will be with a small group of like-minded women. Instead of medinas feeling overwhelming, they become a safe and fascinating adventure. The souks that might seem intimidating are fun. And the safety concerns that you were worrying about disappear. Many of the solo women who join my tours have never travelled to Africa before. Some have never travelled solo. All have felt safe and well looked after on the tour. Morocco is not always an easy destination. It can be intense, noisy, chaotic and sometimes challenging. But it is also warm, welcoming, intriguing and hugely rewarding. For women willing to embrace cultural differences with an open mind and a sense of adventure, Morocco is an unforgettable - and safe - travel experience. If you'd like to explore Morocco with a small group of women in a fully supported, fun and safe environment, take a look at my upcoming tours. I'd love you to join me.
- Going underground in Southern Morocco
If I asked you if would like to visit an irrigation channel on your Moroccan tour, unless you're an engineer, you'd likely say no. But you would be missing out! Centuries ago, in the arid landscapes of southern Morocco, where water is scarce, the local population developed a sophisticated underground irrigation system, to maximise this precious resource. Although most of these ancient channels, known as khettaras, have fallen into disuse, it is possible to see them, and go inside some of them, near the small town of Jorf. Rows of low mounds, on either side of the road, indicate that you're in khettara country. The origins of the khettara system can be traced back to ancient Persia, where similar irrigation techniques, known as qanats, were first developed over 2,500 years ago. From Persia, their use gradually spread across North Africa, reaching Morocco around the 11th century. They were widely used in the oases of Tafilalet and the Draa Valley, where, historically, rainfall is low. The undergound channels were constructed from the base of a mountain or highland area, at the level of the water table. Numerous vertical shafts, ranging from a few metres deep to over 30 metres, were dug along the planned route of the khettara, providing both access and ventialtion. The mounds you can see next to the road mark the tops of these vertical shafts. The shafts connect to an underground channel, dug out on a gentle slope and through which water flowed naturally from the water table, under the force of gravity. At the end of the channel, the water was distributed to fields and palm groves via a network of open-air canals or basins, with traditional water-sharing systems ensuring the water was distributed fairly among each community. Because the channels were built underground, there was minimal evaporation; and, by tapping into the water table, water continued to flow, even during periods of drought. The channels were maintained by the local communities, to avoid silt build-up and collapse. Unfortunately, as the level of the water table has dropped, due to overextraction and on-going drought, most of the khettaras in Morocco are no longer viable. And with the introduction of motorised pumps, khettaras have been abandoned in favour of faster and less labour-intensive irrigation systems, which, in turn, has led to channels collapsing and becoming clogged up. The best place to see well preserved khettaras is near Jorf. Walking down into one of these underground channels is a unique opportunity to appreciate the effort that went into building them, hundreds of years ago, without the aid of modern machinery. Local guides are on hand to explain the significance of the khettaras for the communities living here. If you’re driving from Merzouga towards Ouarzazate, don’t miss the chance to visit a khettara – they’re not just for engineers.
- Ait Benhaddou
A Step Back in Time Ait Benhaddou is always on my itineraries. Located between the High Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert, this ksar (fortified village) was once an important trading post on the ancient caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. A UNESCO World Heritage site, dating from the 17th century, Ait Benhaddou is a stunning example of southern Moroccan architecture. There is no road access. We make our way over the Ounila River, via a pedestrian bridge, to narrow, winding alleyways and a maze of rammed-earth buildings. Several sets of stairs climb up to a lookout at the top, from where there are views over the village and surrounding palm groves and, on a clear day, to the snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains. There's always plenty of time to explore the souvenir shops that sell ceramics, carpets, jewellery and other Moroccan handicrafts and maybe stop for a mint tea in one of the cute cafes. There is a thriving community of artists here and one of my favourites is Hafida Zizi, a self-taught Amarzigh (Berber) artist, who celebrates the lives of Moroccan women through her art. We often find Hafida painting in her gallery, Tiwirga, from where she sells her bold and colourful canvasses, ceramics and homewares. The village is also home to several artists who paint with tea, sugar and saffron, before heating their work over a flame, which transforms and darkens the colours. The dramatic location and unique architecture of Ait Benhaddou have caught the eye of filmmakers from around the world, with many movies shot here, including Lawrence of Arabia , The Mummy, Gladiator , and Game of Thrones . Film buffs love tracking down the location of scenes from the movies. If you'd like to visit Ait Benhaddou, join me on one of my tours later this year.
- The joys of small group travel
A ‘small’ group means different things to different people. For some travel companies, a small group can be 20 people. For me, a small group is four, eight, or occasionally ten. And for my women-only tours, it is often just four. There are so many things I love about travelling together in a small group. It’s flexible. It’s easy to make impromptu stops along the way, there’s no need to book restaurants weeks in advance and there’s less waiting around for dozens of people to turn up on time. It’s a great way to make lasting friendships. You have a chance to share authentic experiences and really get to know your fellow travellers, creating friendships that last a lifetime. And there are more opportunities to connect meaningfully with locals, whether it’s sharing a meal, learning to make bread in a wood-fired oven with local women, walking through a community garden with a villager who knows everyone we meet along the way, and much more. With four guests, we travel together in a comfortable seven-seater car, a Mercedes Vito, or similar. Any more than four and we’re in a small bus that seats either 13 or 17 passengers, so there’s always plenty of space when we’re driving. If travelling through Morocco in a genuinely small group appeals to you, I have two tours in October 2026, one for just four guests, ladies only, and another for eight guests, open to anyone. Get in touch if you’d like to find out more: heather@moroccanescapes.com.au
- Flavours of Morocco
Just last year, Gordon Ramsay announced Moroccan food as the best in the world, the results of an internet survey, in which 2.5 million people voted. If you enjoy trying local food when you travel, you'll love the rich flavours of Morocco, that blend together Mediterranean, Berber and Middle Eastern influences. So what can you expect to eat while travelling through Morocco? Tajine Tagine is Morocco’s signature dish, and you'll find it on the menu in every Moroccan restaurant. Named after the earthenware dish with a conical lid that it's cooked in, a tagine is a slow-cooked stew that combines meat or fish, vegetables and/or dried fruits, nuts and a variety of spices, including cumin, turmeric, ginger, and saffron. The slow cooking produces a dish that is rich and aromatic. Some of the classic tagines include chicken with olives and preserved lemons and beef with prunes and almonds. If you've never had a tajine before, you're in for a treat! Couscous If it’s Friday, it must be couscous . Couscous is another cornerstone of Moroccan cuisine, traditionally served after the Friday midday prayer. Moroccan couscous, made by steaming semolina (coarsely ground wheat), is light and fluffy and a far-cry from the packaged couscous we buy in the supermarket. Couscous is served in different ways in different regions but is usually garnished with zucchini, carrots, pumpkin and other root vegetables. Sometimes, it's topped with a mix of caramelized onions, raisins and cinnamon, sometimes meat or chicken is added and, on special occasions, look out for Royal Couscous which has a selection of several different meats and vegetables. Pastilla Pastilla is a unique Moroccan dish, combining sweet and savoury flavours in a round pie. It’s made from flaky pastry, and traditionally filled with pigeon, although chicken or fish is now more commonly used. Almonds, egg, saffron, and fresh herbs are added to the filling and the top is usually dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, giving a touch of sweetness. Pastilla is a speciality of Fes. Soups Often eaten during Ramadan, when it is served to break the fast at sunset, harira is a tasty and filling soup, made from a rich blend of tomatoes, lentils, and chickpeas, flavoured with spices. Harira is typically served with dates and chebakia, a sweet sesame cookie. Another popular soup, bissara, is made from broad beans and topped with olive oil and cumin. Fish and seafood With a coastline stretching for over 3,500kms, it's no surprise that fish and seafood feature highly on Moroccan menus. In coastal cities, like Agadir, Essaouira, Casablanca and Tangier, fresh catches are landed daily. Local fish markets in these cities are a great place to choose your favourite fish and have it cooked at a nearby restaurant. Shakshuka Sometimes referred to as Berber omelette, there are many variations on this egg dish, served sizzling hot in a skillet or tajine, at breakfast or lunch. It's sometimes garnished with olives or with dried meat, called khlea. Eat it like a local by scooping it from the serving dish with chunks of fresh bread. Khlea Morocco’s take on preserved meat is khlea , somewhere between beef jerky and slow-cooked confit. It's usually made from strips of beef or lamb, marinated in a mix of garlic, salt, coriander, cumin and sometimes vinegar. The meat is dried in the sun for a few days, simmered in rendered fat and then stored in the fat, in sealed containers. It keeps like this for months without having to be refrigerated. Khlea is often added to eggs for breakfast or to lentil or bean stews. Brochettes Kebabs of skewered meat or chicken, rubbed in salt and spices, are known as brochettes . Cooked over a charcoal grill, this simple dish is often served with a Moroccan salad. Mechoui For meat lovers, mechoui is a must-try Moroccan speciality: lamb, cooked whole, in an underground clay oven. The lamb is marinated in a blend of garlic, cumin and other spices, then slow cooked until the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender. Today, mechoui is cooked in a conventional oven but visitors to Marrakech can check out the traditional cooking method along Mechoui Alley, a narrow laneway at the northern end of Jemaa El Fna (the main square). Here, in a row of small restaurants, whole sheep and goats are roasted in a large clay pit, built into the restaurant floor. Join the locals as they choose their preferred cut, buying the meat by weight. Moroccan salads are much more than a few mixed lettuce leaves in a vinaigrette dressing. Usually made from cooked vegetables and served warm or cold, they are a meal in themselves. Think sweetened carrots, chick peas, beans, eggplant (aubergine), capsicum (peppers), potatoes, zuccini. .. the list goes on. My favourites are zaalouk , made from cooked eggplant and tomatoes, seasoned with garlic, cumin, paprika and olive oil; and smoky taktouka, a mix of charred green capsicum (peppers) and tomatoes, cooked with garlic and cumin. The most simple Moroccan salad , served as an entrée or as an accompaniment to a meal, is a mix of chopped fresh tomatoes, cucumber and onions, garnished with herbs and dressed with olve oil. Dates and olives Both dates and olives are grown across Morocco and are used extensively in cooking. Dates from the southeast are considered the best in the country - if you're visiting Rissani, on the way to the Sahara, check out the stalls selling Medjool dates and if you're there in early October, you may catch the dates festival. Olives come in many varieties and are often served in a restaurant while you’re waiting for the meal to arrive. Amlou If you like nut butter, you'll love amlou ! Made from ground almonds, argan oil and honey, it's a great topping for bread and pancakes and is often served at breakfast. Fruit There are fruits galore in Morocco and they make a refreshing dessert - oranges sprinkled with cinnamon or strawberries with a dusting of sugar are common. Freshly squeezed fruit juice is also widely available. Sfenj Sfenj are Moroccan donuts, and they are the best! Buy them freshly cooked from a street vendor, dipped in honey or sugar. You might be lucky enough to have them served at breakfast. Sweet Treats Patisseries across Morocco sell many different types of pastries and sweet treats. Chebakia is a deep-friend pastry, soaked in honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds, traditionally eaten during Ramadan. Kaab el Ghazal , or gazelle horns, are a crescent-shaped cookie, filled with almond paste and sometimes coated with chopped nuts or dipped in orange blossom water. The perfect accompaniment to a Moroccan tea. Mint Tea Referred to by the locals as 'Berber whisky,' mint tea is the national drink of Morocco. It is made by brewing green tea with fresh mint leaves and sugar – lots of sugar! If you don’t like sweet tea, ask your host to skip the sugar or serve it on the side. Mint tea is usually served in small colourful glasses, and the act of pouring the tea from a height into the glass is a ritual in itself, meant to aerate the tea and improve the flavour. ~ Regional specialities Many regions in Morocco have their own signature dishes that are not commonly found elsewhere. Here are just a few. Tanjia Not to be confused with tajine, tanjia is a traditional dish from Marrakech. It is usually made with lamb or veal, cooked for many hours in a terracotta pot, in the ashes of hot coals, so the meat is soft and tender. It is usually served with bread. R’fissa , A Casablanca staple, r'fissa is made with flaky pancakes (msemen), spiced chicken and lentils and seasoned with herbs and spices. Medfouna Otherwise known as ‘Berber pizza’, medfouna is a speciality from the southeast of Morocco, in and around Merzouga. It is a flat bread, filled with ground meat, often lamb, and vegetables. Goat's cheese If you're visiting Chefchaouen, or Tetouan, in the Rif Mountains, be sure to try the local goat's cheese . Although you'll find goat's cheese on the menu in many restaurants across Morocco, it's especially good in the Rif. Try it spread on fresh bread, in salads or on its own. Alcohol Alcohol is forbidden in the Quran, so it's not a big part of daily life in Morocco: it's more common for locals to while away the evening in a cafe, sipping a coffee, than propping up a bar. That's not to say that alcohol isn't available: it's just not as widely avaialable as we're used to in Australia. If you’re craving a cocktail, a beer, or a glass of wine, there are licensed bars and restaurants in the major cities, and supermarkets, such as Carrefour, have separate sections selling alcohol. ~ Whether you enjoy high-end dining or grabbing something simple from a street vendor, Moroccan food really is a feast for the senses and trying the local dishes is a bit part of my Moroccan tours. An evening food tour in Fes or Marrakech is always a highlight. As the Moroccan say before a meal - B'saha! (Bon appétit!)
- Asilah
Located just 45 minutes south of Tangier, on the Atlantic coast, the small town of Asilah is a hidden gem, often bypassed by visitors to northern Morocco. With a Bohemian vibe, this laid-back town brings together a blend of Portuguese, Spanish, and Moroccan influences. At the heart of Asilah is a clean, well-preserved medina . Its whitewashed walls provide a canvas for street artists from around the world, who flock to Asilah every July for the annual arts festival, transforming the streets with striking, colourful murals. The Grand Mosque, Asilah As you enter the medina through the Bab al-Kasbah gate, you can't miss the Grand Mosque , on the left, with its octagonal minaret, a design seen mainly in northern Morocco. Borj Al Qamra tower, Asilah A little further on, the impressive Borj Al Qamra tower , a rectangular tower, built by the Portuguese in 1509, overlooks a small square. The winding lanes of the medina are a great place for some relaxed retail therapy, with artisan boutiques and galleries and none of the hard-sell you’ll find in more popular tourist cities. Traditional carpets hang from windows, artists exhibit their work outside shops and small boutiques display jewellery, ceramics, textiles, leather goods, kaftans and more. Whitewashed buildings gleam in the sunshine and contrasting blue and green painted shutters and doors make for great photographs. Look out for the Insta-worthy door, surrounded by a circle of handprints, seahorses and other symbols, on a white building, next to the sea wall. You’ll know you’ve found it when you spot the queue of people waiting to pose for a photograph. The medina is protected from the crashing Atlantic waves by 15th-century Portuguese ramparts. Follow the ancient walls to where they jut out into the ocean, at Krikia , for views back over the medina – a popular spot at the end of the day to watch the sun setting over the ocean. Ramparts, Asilah medina If time allows, take a stroll along the waterfront promenade next to Asilah’s sandy beaches, enjoy fresh fish and seafood in a local restaurant and, if you happen to be visiting on a Thursday, check out the weekly regional souk (market), held on Avenue Khalid Ibn Oualid. And on any day of the week, there is a smaller street souk on Avenue Hassan II, outside the Bab Al Homar gate to the medina. Asilah is one of my favourite small towns in Morocco. If you’re visiting Northern Morocco, don’t miss it!
- Highlights of Casablanca
If you're arriving into Morocco on a long-haul flight, chances are you'll touch down in Casablanca, a city that gets a bad rap when it comes to Morocco's tourist destinations. With a population of around 3.5 million, it is Morocco's largest city, the country's principal commercial hub and home to one of Africa’s busiest ports. Here are some of the highlights of this sprawling urban centre. The Casablanca skyline, looking across the Arab League Park Casablanca's stand-out visitor attraction is the Hassan II Mosque , one of the largest mosques in the world. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, this imposing mosque, completed in 1993, features intricate marble work, hand-carved wooden ceilings and stunning mosaics. Its vast scale can accommodate 25,000 worshippers inside and 80,000 in the courtyard outside. At night, a laser shines from the top of the minaret in the direction of Mecca. It is one of the few religious buildings in Morocco that non-Muslims are allowed to visit and guided tours are conducted throughout the day, in several languages. Go early to avoid the crowds. Hassan II Mosque For architecture enthusiasts, Casablanca is home to a collection of Art Deco buildings, including the Post Office and Palais de Justice, on Place Mohammed V, the Cinema Rialto and the Sacré-Coeur Church. Now an events space, the Sacré-Cœur Church , sometimes referred to as the Casablanca Cathedral, is a stunning, brilliant-white building, dating from 1930, mixing Art Deco, Moroccan and Neo-Gothic architecture. It stands on the edge of the Arab League Park. Sacre Coeur Church The Villa des Arts is another striking Art Deco building, also overlooking the Arab League Park. Housing a small art gallery with temporary exhibitions, showcasing Moroccan contemporary art, it is open every day. There is no charge to visit. Villa des Arts If you're looking for a green space to escape the chaos of the city, head to the Arab League Park, an urban park covering about 30 acres in the city centre. Rows of towering palm trees, fountains and tiled water channels provide a peaceful oasis in downtown Casablanca. The Arab League Park Another option for a relaxing stroll, is to head to La Corniche , Casablanca’s coastal promenade that stretches for many kilometres alongside the Atlantic Ocean. It is popular with both locals and tourists for its sandy beaches, trendy cafés and oceanfront restaurants. La Corniche Casablanca's Central Market, built in 1917, is a hive of activity, with vendors selling flowers, meat, fish and fresh produce. If you enjoy fish and seafood, choose a selection from the fish sellers and have it cooked at one of the little restaurants behind the market. Le Marché Central The Habous District The Habous District , sometimes referred to as the 'new medina,' was built during the French Protectorate period and brings together traditional Moroccan and French styles. Here, you’ll find local artisan shops, bookstores and antique sellers. And don’t miss Patisserie Bennis Habous for some of the best cakes and pastries in Casablanca. You can easily while away a couple of hours here, wandering the pedestrian-friendly streets. The old medina in Casablanca isn't as vast or chaotic as the medinas of Marrakech or Fes, and lacks the medieval charm of some of Morocco's other popular medinas, but its maze of narrow alleyways is still worth a visit. Enter through the main gate, Bab Marrakech, on Ave Tahar El Alaoui, or from the gate on one corner of United Nations Square. You'll find tightly packed shops, market stalls and street vendors in this area, selling cheap clothes, shoes, everyday items and, of course, souvenirs. Keep walking north towards the ocean and you'll pass through the residential district of the medina where you can catch a glimpse of a more traditional Casablanca way of life. The old medina Casablanca has a huge range of restaurants, but, for a unique dining experience, visit Rick’s Café, a stylish recreation of the café featured in the movie Casablanca . Though the film wasn’t shot in Morocco, the restaurant has captured the nostalgia of this 1942 Hollywood movie, with its Art Deco interiors, Moroccan décor, and jazz musicians. The cocktails aren’t bad either! Make a reservation in advance. Rick's Cafe Although Casablanca might not have the romantic allure of Marrakech or the medieval magic of Fes, it has a charisma all of its own and plenty to offer visitors who have a day or two to explore.
- When to Visit Morocco
So, you're thinking about going to Morocco. There are a few initial questions to consider: how much time do you need, where to go and perhaps, most importantly, when to go. Although it's an all-year-round destination, Morocco doesn't do weather in moderation - if you're heading to the Sahara in summer, be prepared for temperatures nudging 45 °C. And if you're hiking in the Atlas Mountains in winter, you'll need to pack your crampons. Morocco is a land of weather extremes. Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) Let's start with the most popular months, when the weather is likely to be at its best. Morocco has two 'high seasons': spring (March to May) and autumn (mid-September to November). It's generally warm, with temperatures ranging from around 15-30°C, depending on when and where you go. Coastal areas and the north tend to be a little cooler, while it’s hotter in the south and east, closer to the desert. Days are mainly dry and sunny, but not too hot, making it perfect for sightseeing, exploring the medinas, relaxing at the coast or hiking in the mountains. In spring, the landscape in the north is lush and green, with beautiful wildflowers in bloom across the countryside. The last of the winter snow still lingers on the peaks of the High Atlas, providing a stunning backdrop to the minarets of Marrakech. And March/April and October/November are the ideal months to visit the Sahara, with warm, pleasant days and slightly cooler evenings. Spring poppies, Middle Atlas Mountains Summer (mid-June to August) Moroccan summer sunset Summer in southern Morocco - late June, through July and August - is not for the faint-hearted. In Marrakech and the south, expect temperatures of 40°C and above. If you’re a fan of sizzling heat, this might be your time to visit; just make sure your accommodation has air-conditioning. Many locals escape the city heat and retreat to the mountains and the coast during summer, with cities like Agadir, Essaouira, Tangier, and the beaches along the north coast, busy with Moroccan visitors. In the southern cities, accommodation prices are often lower and there are fewer foreign tourists around. Winter (December to February) Winter in Chefchaouen The Mediterranean climate in the north brings a cool winter, while Marrakech and southern cities experience mild, pleasant weather, with daytime temperatures around 15-20°C. In the Sahara, days will be warm but temperatures drop quickly once the sun goes down, so pack accordingly. Snow is common in the High Atlas and mountain roads may occasionally close, when snow blocks the passes. The big advantage of travelling in winter (apart from over the busy Christmas and New Year period) is that accommodation and tourist sites are quieter. Ramadan As well as considering the weather, don't forget to check the timing of Ramadan. Morocco is a Muslim country, and the holy month of Ramadan is widely observed. The dates change each year by a couple of weeks, depending on the lunar calendar. In 2026, Ramadan falls between mid-February and mid-March. The exact start and end dates are determined each year by the sighting of the crescent moon. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset. Many restaurants and cafes close during the day or operate on reduced hours and you may find it's more difficult to track down your favourite cocktail or glass of wine. Tourist sites are generally open but most locals, including your accommodation staff and your guide and driver, will to be fasting. Although tourists are not expected to fast, it's important to respect the Muslim tradition and avoid eating or drinking when you're out during the day, except in cafes and restaurants. Days shift to a later start and life generally moves at a slower pace until the sun sets and the cities come alive as locals gather for "Iftar", the meal to break the fast. Visiting during Ramadan is an opportunity to experience this important aspect of Moroccan culture, while enjoying a quieter time in Morocco. Travelling during the High Season There can never be any guarantees with the weather, of course, but choosing the right season for your Moroccan adventure can make all the difference. If you decide to visit during the peak of the high season - think April and October - my advice is to book early. Many riads only have a few rooms which means they get booked up quickly and the same goes for private transport. So, if you can, plan ahead. Please get in touch if you have any questions about when to visit Morocco.
- Planning a Moroccan itinerary
How much time do you need in Morocco? I am often asked this question and, the answer is, it depends! If you live in Europe, it’s easy to hop over to Morocco for a week, or even a long weekend. So, with the possibility of returning easily and cheaply, there's no need to pack the whole country into one trip. But if you’re travelling from Australia or the west coast of the US, Morocco is a long way and maybe a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ destination. Which leads to a tendency for guests to want to cover as much ground as possible in a short time. Morocco is a large country and trying to pack everything from north to south into ten or twelve days will inevitably lead to long days of driving and spending only one night in most locations, with limited time to explore when you get there. Of course, it’s a balance between doing as much as possible and keeping to your timeframe and budget. If you can’t extend your trip, it may be better to focus on what you really want to experience and build your itinerary around that area. So, if the highlight for you is the Sahara, maybe stick to exploring the south and Marrakech. Visiting Tangier or Chefchaouen in the far north might have to wait for another time. Travel independently or join a tour? Should you travel independently or join an escorted tour? This really comes down to personal preference, and perhaps how confident you feel travelling in an unknown country. Do you like everything to be organised for you or do you prefer the spontaneity of independent travel? Do you like to share travel experiences with a group or are you happy with your own company or travelling with a partner or friend? Joining an escorted tour takes the stress out of travelling to an unfamiliar destination: someone else has done the research and the organising and, once you arrive, your tour leader or local guide will be on hand to provide assistance, deal with the unexpected and help navigate cultural differences. Joining a small group tour can also be a great way to make new friends. But, of course, a group tour is not for everyone. If tours are not your thing, but you're nervous about going it alone, a good middle ground is a personalised itinerary that allows you to travel independently, but without the hassle of doing all the research and bookings yourself. How to get around If you decide to join a tour, you won't need to think about transport - it will be organised for you. But if you are travelling independently, a key consideration is how you plan to get around in Morocco. Public transport, private car and driver, hire car, domestic flight? Public transport For independent travellers, public transport in Morocco is very affordable and ranges from slick and efficient to almost non-existent, depending on where you want to go. But, of course, it takes time, you have to fit in with the transport schedule, and you will often arrive in a bus or train station that may be at the opposite end of town from your accommodation. The train service is especially good between major cities in the north and along the west coast of Morocco. Africa's first high speed bullet train, Al Boraq, will whisk you from Casablanca to Tangier in just over two hours, by far the fastest way to do this 320 kilometre journey. Regular trains also run between Marrakech and Casablanca in a little under 3 hours, although there is no direct train from Marrakech to Casablanca airport: you should allow another hour, to an hour and a half, to get to the airport, depending on the connection time. From Rabat to Fes, the train journey is about 3 hours and Fes to Marrakech takes about 6.5 hours. First and second class carriages are available. In other parts of Morocco, and to explore rural areas, buses and grand taxis are the only options, if you're relying on public transport. CTM and Supratours are the two main bus companies that connect bigger towns and cater to tourists. For shorter trips, and to reach smaller towns, grand taxis are shared taxis, usually taking up to six passengers, sometimes with two passengers in the front seat of an old Mercedes and four in the back! These taxis run from fixed points and will leave only when the car is full. If you need transport within a city, it's easy to hail a local taxi. The taxis in each city are a distinct colour so they're easy to spot: light blue with a yellow stripe in Tangier, red in Casablanca, blue in Chefchaouen, white in Ouarzazate, yellow in Marrakech etc. The biggest challenge is establishing a reasonable fare. Private driver Hiring a private car and driver is, of course, more expensive when compared to public transport, but, if this is within your budget, there are several advantages: It's always nice to have someone meet you at the airport. Your driver will be waiting for you on arrival and will be with you for the duration of your tour. You don’t need to worry about dragging your luggage on and off trains or buses. You will be delivered to the door of your accommodation each day, or, if it’s in the medina, to a designated meeting point, and won’t have to worry about getting from the train or bus station to where you’re staying. You are free to make ad hoc stops along the way, either for a coffee or impromptu sightseeing, an option that is not possible if you’re travelling by public transport on a designated route. Drivers are a font of local knowledge and can recommend the best restaurants, shops and other attractions and activities. They will usually go out of their way to help you, making bookings or other arrangements to ensure you get the most from your tour. In short, a private driver takes all the stress out of travelling around Morocco, without compromising your independence. Hire car Hiring a car and driving yourself is, of course, another option. It allows complete flexibility and is less expensive than hiring a private driver. Perhaps the biggest disadvantage of driving yourself is that, even with extensive research, you are bound to miss some interesting stops and won’t have the benefit of a driver’s local knowledge. You should be aware that speed limits are strictly enforced in Morocco and the ever-present roadside police will not hesitate to issue fines. Finding safe parking in the bigger cities can be challenging, so be prepared to leave your car some distance from your accommodation. Domestic flight The national airline, Royal Air Maroc, and budget airlines, Air Arabia and Ryanair, fly internally within Morocco. Flights are available between major cities and, if you are short on time, and want to visit destinations in both the north and south of the country, a domestic flight is definitely worth considering. Getting around in cities When you’ve reached your destination, the best way to experience Moroccan cities is to walk and, if you’re exploring the medina, walking is the only option. If you need directions, some locals will helpfully assist, some will be happy to guide you on the expectation of payment for their services and others will tell you the medina is closed or the street you want is blocked off - even when it isn't. It's best to have Google Maps and/or the maps.me app on your phone. Both apps will sometimes struggle in the medina, where streets are narrow and covered: you may find that one will work when the other doesn't. If you need to travel a longer distance outside the medina, unless you have a private driver, you will have to run the gauntlet of the local taxis. Always agree the price before you get in or ensure the driver is using the meter and beware of meters that ‘don’t work,’ drivers who don't have change or vastly inflated fares. Still have questions? Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions about planning a Moroccan itinerary. I would love to help you!
- The Roman Ruins of Volubilis
Who knew the Romans made it to Morocco? There are several Roman sites in Morocco but the best known, and most extensive, is the ancient city of Volubilis, about an hour and a half drive from Fes. Volubilis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country’s most significant archaeological sites. First settled in the 3rd century BC by the Berber people, Volubilis became a Roman provincial capital in the 1st century, sitting at the centre of a significant agricultural area that produced olive oil, grain, and wine. It is believed to have had around 20,000 residents at its peak, a significant population for a city on the fringes of the empire. Local tribes took over Volubilis in 285 and it was inhabited for another 700 years, before being abandoned in the 11th century. The ruins stood largely intact until an earthquake in 1755 damaged much of the site. Excavations began in 1887 but mostly took place during the French protectorate from 1912 to 1956. Today, Volubilis is renowned for its impressive ruins, including stunning mosaics, public buildings, triumphal arches, and private residences, surrounded by a scenic landscape of olive groves and wheat fields. Highlights of Volubilis Volubilis is spread across a wide area of about 42 hectares and, although much of the city lies in ruins, several key landmarks are well-preserved. The Arch of Caracalla is one of the most iconic landmarks in Volubilis. Built in 217 CE, in honour of the Roman Emperor Caracalla and his mother, Julia Domna, the arch stands at the southern end of the city and would have been the entrance to the main thoroughfare. The Arch of Caracalla The Capitoline Temple The Capitoline Temple was the key religious site in Volubilis, dedicated to the three main Roman gods - Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. Today, only the foundations and columns remain in an elevated position that offers views across the surrounding countryside. The Basilica A djacent to the Capitoline Temple is the Basilica , which served as the city’s administrative and judicial centre. It overlooks the forum where markets would have been held. Decumanus Maximus, the main street, Volubilis Although the ruined buildings are impressive, Volubilis is perhaps best known for its stunning mosaics that once adorned the floors of the city’s most prestigious homes. The House of Orpheus was a Roman villa that contained several detailed mosaic floors, including a stunning depiction of the mythical musician Orpheus charming animals with his lyre. The House of the Labours of Hercules features a beautiful mosaic of the twelve labours of Hercules (the twelve tasks assigned to Hercules as penance for killing his wife and children) and another of the four seasons. In the ruins of the House of Ephebe, you can see a mosaic of Bacchus, in a chariot pulled by leopards, while the House of Venus depicts Diana. Another must-see villa is the House of the Athlete, which has a light-hearted mosaic of an athlete riding a donkey, facing backwards, while carrying a cup. The public baths, Volubilis Your guide will point out other interesting features of the site, including a comprehensive aqueduct system that delivered water from a nearby spring to the city, including to the public baths . And don’t miss the remains of ancient olive presses, evidence of the importance of Volubilis as a centre for olive oil production. Need to know Opening hours: Daily from 8.30am until an hour before sunset. Entry Fees : The entrance fee is currently 100 MAD (approximately 10 Euros). Guided tour : Local guides, knowledgeable about the history of Volubilis, wait at the entrance and can be hired for an additional fee. Having a guide at Volubilis really brings the ruins to life. Expect a guided tour to last between 1 and 1.5 hours. What to Bring : The site is in the open air and has little shade, so make sure you have sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water, especially in the hotter months. Comfortable walking shoes are a must, as the terrain is rocky and uneven. Facilities : There are public toilets at the entrance and a small cafe, La Corbeille Fleurie. Otherwise, plan to eat lunch in nearby Moulay Idriss Zerhoune or Meknes, before or after your visit.
- Accommodation in Morocco
Choosing the right style of accommodation is a big part of planning any overseas trip and Morocco has it all, from uber luxury hotels in major cities to simple guesthouses in the countryside. And everything in between. Riads A riad is a boutique Moroccan guesthouse, and, given the choice, I would choose a riad over a Western-style hotel, every time. But if you are drawn to the allure of a global hotel chain, with modern, international standard amenities, such as a gym, swimming pool, a bar and large communal areas, then a hotel may the right choice for you. You can be dropped off at the front door, you can choose from multiple room types, and it will all feel familiar. But you will be missing out on a real Moroccan experience. So, before you decide, here are some thoughts on staying in a riad. Riads are found mainly in the medinas, the old, traditional areas of Moroccan towns. Many were originally the private homes of wealthy merchants and vary in style from simple to luxurious, but always with an emphasis on personal service and Moroccan hospitality. Rooms are generally centred around an inner courtyard or garden, often featuring a fountain, small pool or maybe some citrus trees. Riads are generally smaller than hotels and may only have six or eight rooms, often of different sizes and styles. Reflecting the Islamic tradition of privacy, riad rooms usually face inwards, towards the courtyard, rather than out to the street. Although most riads now have air-conditioning, in the past, the design, with small, outward-facing windows and a central courtyard, helped to maintain a comfortable temperature inside the house. Many riads have a rooftop terrace looking out over the medina: the perfect place for breakfast, in warmer months, or to relax and watch the sunset in the evening. You may also come across the word ‘dar’ which means ‘home’ in Arabic, while ‘riad’ means garden. Traditionally, 'riad' would have been the term used to describe only the larger homes in the medina. Don't be alarmed if the entrance to your riad is an unassuming doorway in a medina alleyway - these doors give no hint as to what lies inside. Once inside, you will often be amazed by intricate zellige (traditional Moroccan tiling), delicate wood carving and beautiful textiles. Be aware that riads in the middle of the medina have no road access so you may be dropped off some distance away. Porters, either from the riad itself, or working in the medina, are usually available to assist with carrying luggage. And, since riads are generally housed in old buildings, many do not have an elevator. So if you struggle with stairs, it's worth asking whether a room is available on the ground floor. Kasbah hotels A kasbah is a traditional fortress, found mostly in the south of Morocco. Historically, kasbahs were the fortified homes of local leaders, often built to keep the family safe from invaders. Made from rammed earth (adobe), they are imposing buildings with narrow windows, heavy wooden doors, crenelated walls and often towers or turrets. Their thick exterior walls keep the interior cool in the heat of summer. Some of the old kasbahs in the south of Morocco have been converted into guest accommodation, while others have been purpose-built as hotels. As with riads, they range in style and price from simple to luxurious. They provide a unique Moroccan experience and, if your Moroccan journey includes the south, why not take the opportunity to stay in a kasbah? Desert camp Spending a night or two in the Sahara is the iconic Moroccan experience and, over the last few years, many new camps have sprung up in the desert around Merzouga and M’Hamid el Ghizlane, the two main towns on the edge of the Sahara. As with other types of accommodation, there are camps to suit every budget. Tents are usually permanent. Some will have ensuite bathrooms, some will not. Check if the camp you want to visit has tents with air-conditioning – essential if you’re travelling in the warmer months. But don't miss the opportunity for this once-in-a-lifetime experience. ~ Staying in a Moroccan riad or kasbah or desert camp is more than just finding a place to sleep – it’s a chance to have a unique Moroccan experience and to enjoy the traditional hospitality for which Morocco is famous. If you have any questions about Moroccan accommodation or would like recommendations of places to stay, please get in touch.











